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5 segments from The Long Circle South / 2026. Filter the full log with the same tag.
A technical descent from Etna’s volcanic highlands into the softer interior of southeastern Sicily, where precision riding gradually gives way to flow. The stage resolves at sea level in Syracuse, completing the transition from raw elevation to coastal calm.
After four days in Palermo, the expedition resumed with an easier coastal traverse across northern Sicily toward Messina. Less survival, more rhythm — one final slow passage before leaving the island again.
The expedition slowed intentionally today with an easier coastal ride north through Calabria and an early campsite setup by midday. Before continuing, the BMW R1300 GSA received its 10,000 km service and rear brake replacement at Barletto Moto Service — a reminder that long-distance travel depends as much on maintenance and preparation as on movement itself.
After a sleepless night of heavy wind at Camping Lungomare, the expedition started early and temporarily abandoned the planned route to visit Craco and Matera. Craco delivered abandoned ghost-town atmosphere and raw southern Italian isolation, while Matera proved to be one of the most extraordinary places of the entire journey — ancient cave districts carved into stone and layered with thousands of years of history. Sometimes cheating the route is the right decision.
Matera to the Adriatic coast: trulli villages, cliff towns, harbors, and sea roads instead of gravel and survival mode. The expedition slows down in Carovigno before the northern return begins.
